Review: The Body: Fashion and Physique at FIT
While viewing the exhibition “The Body: Fashion and Physique” at The Museum at FIT, I was most attracted to the “No-Bra” Bra, designed by Rudi Gernreich in 1964. The garment is made of a nylon fabric and is a soft white-beige color. It has two triangular cups, two adjustable straps, and a thin strap that clasps the back together. The fabric is purposely translucent with opaque straps, highlighting the stitching and trimmings as the main design elements. The garment appears delicate, but with a functional sturdiness to it. At first glance, the “No-Bra” bra reminds me of the more modern “bralette,” which is a bra designed without any wire or firm cups, usually made of a lace or equally delicate fabric. Bralettes, designed for women who want something between a bra and no bra at all, have become very popular among young women because the wire and/or straps don’t dig into your skin as much as a normal bra. Bralettes are considered a modern undergarment because they are comfortable yet attractive at the same time. The “No Bra” bra doesn’t have any type of embellishment or flashiness to it; just as its name suggests, this garment appears to be designed to be supportive in the most subtle way possible. A simple french dart in the bust adds a subtle, flattering touch of femininity.
“The Body: Fashion and Physique” was curated by FIT’s associate curator of costume Emma McClendon, who writes, “The fashion industry has historically approached the body — particularly the female body — as malleable, something that can be molded and changed with the cut of a garment, sculpting underwear, diet, exercise, and even plastic surgery.” However, this garment does not seek to mold or change anything about the female frame. The description for this garment reads that the designer intended to “free the body” with this garment: “It was designed to give the wearer support without altering her natural shape — as if she was wearing no bra at all.” This garment fits into this exhibition in that it provides an example of fashions approach to the female body. While still offering some type of enhancement in the form of chest support, this garment is a design that succeeds in enhancing the body without changing or hiding anything about it. According to the Museum at FIT’s online collections, the designer Rudi Gernreich was “...focused on liberating women’s bodies. Although his topless bathing suit was an extreme example, Gernreich’s bold fashions frequently made news. Sheer, unstructured “no-bra” bras, dresses with provocative cutouts in clear vinyl, pant suits with androgynous styling, and op art-inspired patterns in striking color combinations were among the most influential of his designs.” According to the museum, Gernreich was regarded as ahead of his time in his minimalist approach to making a bold statement, and he believed that in the future, nudity would evoke freedom rather than sexuality. This approach to a women’s body is clearly shown in the “No Bra” bra, which prioritizes function over fashion while still managing to take a stance on freeing the female form.
I would love to own a bra just like this garment because it is a simple yet appealing design that is comfortable and functional. Many women struggle in finding a properly fitting bra, and many women shop for lingerie prioritizing design over comfort. Designs like push-up bras have also gained popularity for enhancing a women’s bust. I personally prefer a utilitarian garment, and I could see a bra like this being sold now at stores like Uniqlo. I love the subtle details of this piece, especially the use of the French dart. In “The Body: Fashion and Physique,” the only thing that brought the different pieces together was the curator’s commentary throughout; all of the garments were from different eras, designers, and fabrics. Emma McClendon’s insights are what made “The Body” museum-worthy and convinced me to examine these garments with a fresh perspective. This exhibition reminded me a lot of the MoMA’s “Items: Is Fashion Modern?” in that both exhibitions mix high fashion and pure function garments to explore how fashion sees the human body. I think my clothes could be seen in a museum if they were framed in a similar way.
